Pitoy Moreno’s Enduring Style

Timeless: J Moreno Exhibit celebrates the life and works of Pitoy Moreno on his centennial anniversary

Words Patricia Angela Moslares
Photos Patricia Angela Moslares & Metropolitan Museum of Manila
April 5, 2025

From a corner of the second floor of the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, two terno with bubble skirts in shades of pink and black stand. This mysterious and alluring section of the museum serves as the entry to Timeless: J Moreno, an exhibit created in partnership with Jusi & Piña to commemorate the 100th birthday of Filipino designer Pitoy Moreno.

Crowned the ‘Fashion Czar of Asia,’ Jose ‘Pitoy’ Moreno was one of the most well-known Filipino fashion designers in the world during his time. As part of the generation that emerged from World War II following the Japanese occupation, Moreno witnessed the country's first steps toward independence from the United States.

The prominent designer used his talent to promote Philippine identity, an advocacy nurtured by the historical context in which he lived, as well as the academic and artistic environment at the University of the Philippines' College of Fine Arts, where he graduated. He introduced Filipino fashion to a global audience, reviving the Maria Clara gown and refining the Barong Tagalog.

Captivating the world with Filipino fashion

Three years after graduating from college, Pitoy opened his first shop on Taft Avenue in Manila. There, he began creating costumes for the National Dance Company of the Philippines, Bayanihan, which was based at the nearby Philippine Women’s University. Pitoy gained global recognition after Bayanihan appeared on The Ed Sullivan Show in the United States during the 1960s. He combined various fabrics and designs from different regions of the Philippines, bringing them together to create a signature style.

Dressing for power

Pitoy was sought after by Manila's elite society and had friends from all political backgrounds. He remained largely apolitical, designing for both ruling and opposing politicians, many of whom were his brothers from the Upsilon Sigma Phi fraternity at his alma mater. Pitoy dressed nearly all of the Philippine First Ladies, including Eva Macapagal and Imelda Marcos, as well as American First Ladies such as Nancy Reagan, Pat Nixon, and Betty Ford.

Prominent figures from around the world desired to be dressed by Pitoy—from Queen Sirikit of Thailand and Princess Margaret of Britain to the Emperor of Japan, the King of Malaysia, and fellow fashion designer Pierre Cardin. To wear Pitoy was to wield prestige and power, and the talented designer knew how to convey this through his creations.

Mindanao Fabrics

Pitoy is also known for showcasing traditional handwoven Mindanao fabrics and creating one-of-a-kind, elaborate designs by incorporating beads into them. This dress, in particular, is the T’Boli-style dress worn by Charlene Gonzales, which won her the Best National Costume award at the 1994 Miss Universe. The intricate design of the dress features abaca, T'Boli bells, sequins, crystals, metal, and beads.

Pitoy brides

The highest honor a bride could receive in his day was to be a Pitoy Moreno bride. His first brides were his friends Araceli Limcaco-Dans and Celia Diaz Laurel. Since then, Pitoy has created wedding gowns for various friends and clients, including the gown worn by Susan Roces when she married Fernando Poe Jr. In 1990, the museum exhibited Pitoy’s beautiful wedding gowns, which were inspired by his book on Filipino weddings.

Timeless: J. Moreno is an exhibition that highlights Pitoy’s significant contributions to Filipino fashion and his intentional use of design to create a sense of Philippine identity. It also aims to inspire and guide the next generation of designers in their pursuit of meaningful careers that contribute to the nation's development.

Timeless: J. Moreno will be open to the public until June 29, 2025, at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila in Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.