How Old Manila’s Lost Glamor Influences Today’s Fashion Style
Dive into the rich history of old Manila’s style–the glam awakening of the 20th century and its influences on contemporary Filipino design
Words Randolf Maala-Resueño
March 6, 2025
The first half of the 20th century. A resurgence of nationalism had swept the Philippines–unchained from Spanish colonialism and a rapid spread of American culture.
Highbrow socialites knew where to go. From the infamous Santa Ana Cabaret nightlife to the upscale commercial shops of the Crystal Arcade, old Manila glitz thronged the era. What goes unnoticed is the fashion of its time–and its tastemakers.
Bodabil: Entertainment and Style
Photo courtesy of the Lopez Museum and Library
The second world war ensues. All forms of Western entertainment (especially of the Americans) were banned under the Japanese occupation, a standstill for film production. With entertainment sacked off the cinemas, Filipinos rushed to the theaters to be entertained by bodabil performances–ironically, an Americana remnant. As the name suggests, it derived from the French entertainment acts of ‘vaudeville’ but with a culturally adapted twist, hence the spelling.
Bodabil is a theatrical masterclass in entertainment–a revelry of singing and dancing, magic tricks, and dramatic acts highlighting everyday life through a whimsical lens. Notably, performers wore a specific style of Dandyism for male acts and flopper, often tubular dresses for female entertainers, among other prominent suaveness.
Bodabil luminaries Katy de la Cruz and Atang de la Rama sang their way to stardom with style. Katy highlighted Western silhouettes while Atang mostly veered toward the Filipina ternos, each with their distinct influences in culture and arts.
Courtesy of Kulay Colorization
Manila Carnival Queens: Style Trailblazers
It doesn’t come as a surprise that beauty pageants trailblazed the fashion of the early 1900s. The Manila Carnival Queens were no exception. Spearheaded by the American colonial administration in 1908, the hunt for the beau of the “Pearl of the Orient” was old Manila’s way to find ‘perfection.’ Elected by public balloting to raise funds for the Manila Carnival, the ladies competed with poise and elegance as one was ultimately crowned by voting through magazine and newspaper coupons.
Pacita Longos: Dressing the High Society Filipinas
Credited for pioneering the “butterfly sleeve,” couturier Pacita Langos is unbeknownst to the mestizas of pre-WW2 Manila. Her elegant and innovative take on dated terno frocks made her the go-to designer for the Philippine high society. Her clients ranged from debutantes of the Manila Carnival (Pacita de los Reyes wore her designs) to baro’t sayas of First Lady Aurora Quezon.
Dressing the Now: Old Manila Glamour and its Style Influences
The once flourishing glamour of the old world has now made its way to fashion week. Renowned designers like Rajo Laurel and Mark Bumgarner gained traction with celebs and socialites with their impeccable tailoring of traditional and modern aesthetics–the sculptural approach with the perfect blend of old Manila glamour makes their garments timelessly elegant.
Alongside Filipino fashion stalwarts Lesley Mobo, Jillian Joy, and Carl Jan Cruz, the viewpoint of old Manila glamour has made its way to international domination.
The old Manila glamour is here to stay and intends to go beyond our history books, showcasing the rich history of what once only from the bodabil theaters and Manila Caravan queens’ elegant and campy garbs, to contemporary designers that loom above the thread of Manila’s–and the Philippines’–creative way of bridging motifs from history with modern style.
